Lots of folks in the right-wing blogosphere are excited about this lengthy piece by Mary Eberstadt: Is Food the New Sex? It appears on the Hoover Institution’s website as part of their “Policy Review” series, and it seems an unlikely fit for a center more associated with promoting a staunchly conservative perspective on foreign affairs than on issues like, well, food and sex. The piece got a boost in attention after George Will made it the subject of his column last week.
Eberstadt’s piece is long, and perhaps convincing to those who don’t know their history a bit better. Her basic thesis: as recently as the 1950s, Americans were resolutely non-judgmental about what they ate, and deeply conservative about with whom they had sex. In the last half-century, Eberstadt opines, that moral calculus has been reversed. We now, to be vulgar, care more about what we put in our mouths than whom. Eberstadt offers us a hypothetical “Betty”, a thirty year-old housewife from the Eisenhower era, and “Jennifer”, a thirty year-old single woman from our own time. She summarizes their views thus: Betty thinks food is a matter of taste, whereas sex is governed by universal moral law; and Jennifer thinks exactly the reverse.
Eberstadt thinks that this isn’t a good thing, and is perhaps evidence of a deep inconsistency on the part of modern men and women, at least those modern folks with the sufficient resources to be discriminating about what it is that they eat. (If you are fond of snarky remarks about vegans, the slow food movement, and others who practice ethical consumption, you’ll love this piece. Otherwise, be warned, our Mary is rather tediously middle-brow in her evident contempt for those who are deeply concerned with what we eat.)
There’s a lot wrong with Eberstadt’s piece. First of all, her history is off. She imagines the 1950s as an age blissfully unconcerned with calories and weight, and writes as if dieting emerged sometime during the Sexual Revolution of the subsequent decade. As any student of the discipline known as “body history” knows, she’s off by decades. The first diet books hit the American market at the end of the First World War, in response both to the dramatic fashion changes emerging from France (the new, slim, sleek designs of Paul Poiret, the grandfather in a convoluted way of the flapper dress) and the sudden uptick in the availability of excess food for the majority of Americans (thanks to various technological changes, refrigeration not the least important.) Eberstadt would do well to read Joan Brumberg, our pre-eminent historian of the flesh; see her Fasting Girls and The Body Project.
One of the things about the 1920s is the emergence of what we might call the “moral language of food.” For the first time, as Brumberg’s exhaustive study of girls’ diaries has shown, young women begin to use words like “good” and “bad” to describe their eating habits. It’s in the 1920s, and no later, that we see the emergence of phrases like “I was so bad today” (to refer to an experience of eating something fattening) or “I’ve been good all week” (to refer to having adhered to a strict diet for several days.) Of course, to be entirely fair, it’s in the 1920s that we first see a secular moral language for eating. Any medievalist knows that centuries ago, rich and flavorful foods were given up as acts of penance, and a willingness to subsist on as little as possible (Catherine of Siena is a fine example) was seen as a mark of virtue, particularly for women. For medieval Christians, a disdain for the pleasures of the table was a sign of holiness. This wasn’t just a rejection of gluttony, but of carnal joy itself. (And surely Eberstadt recognizes the double meaning of carnal, which is an ancient one.)
Eberstadt thus makes the mistake that conservatives have been making since at least the Reagan Administration: looking back fondly at the 1950s with the stunningly false assumption that that genuinely anomalous decade represented America as it had always been previously. There may indeed have been women like Eberstadt’s “Betty” running around in 1959. But there weren’t many Bettys in 1929, or 1729, or 1329. Continue reading ‘Of food and sex, and how Mary Eberstadt gets both history and ethics quite wrong’
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